Thursday, July 16, 2009

Basic Care for your Backyard Farm

Basic Care for your Backyard Farm

Square Foot Gardening

Your raised bed farm utilizes a technique called square foot gardening, developed in the 1970’s by Mel Bartholomew. It allows for you to grow more crops in less space, and with less work. Raised bed farms are easy to tend to and care for, and can be placed anywhere with adequate sunlight, including driveways, decks, or rooftops.

An important general tip is to never stand on top of your raised bed. This will compact the soil and make it difficult for your plants to grow.

Planning

Plan your garden before you start planting. Group together plants with similar watering requirements, and plant companion plants together. Companion plants can help each other grow in a variety of ways, while antagonistic plants impede one another’s growth.

Consider the time of year you will be planting and which crops will grow best at that time. Remember- you can have a spring, summer and fall crop in your backyard farm.

Plant your taller crops are on the north side of your raised beds. This way, they won’t shade your smaller plants.

Remember to calculate how many of each plant you will need before going to purchase your seeds or seedlings.

Planting

There are two ways to plant: by planting seeds directly into the ground or by using transplants that you have purchased or grown indoors. When a spring crop is finished, you can replant that square with a summer crop, and later for a fall crop.

For both: Draw a grid with your fingers inside each square foot to make the appropriate number of squares (4, 9, or 16) and plant seeds or seedlings in the center of each newly drawn square. Always remember to label where you have planted which seeds or transplants.

Seeds

Generally, seeds should be planted at a depth of two to four times their size (around 2 in cold weather, 4 in hot weather.) This is about 1/8 to 1 inch. Plant seeds below a moist surface to prevent them from drying out. After planting, gently tap the soil down on top of the seed to bring it into contact with the soil. The best way to water newly planted seeds is with a light mist or spray from the hose so that they are not unearthed.

Transplants

The best time to transplant is in the early morning or on cloudy days to minimize stress on the new plant.

To transplant, dig a hole slightly larger than the container in which the seedling is growing. With vegetables, bury the plant up to the first set of leaves. Pat down the soil firmly around the plant and smooth it around the stem at a slight decline so that water drains toward the plant.

When you plant transplants, check to see if the roots are rootbound (if they are growing in circles.) If they are, cut off the bottom of the roots and soil or gently tease the bottoms of the roots before transplanting.

Climbing Plants

“Vertical crops” such as peas, pole beans and cucumbers grow well on trellises, which will conserve space. Plant the seeds in a line underneath the trellis and train them to climb by twisting the main stem through the trellis once a week.

Watering

Keep newly planted seeds moist, not drenched.

After transplanting, water each seedling immediately and every day for the next few days until they are established.

To water, pour warm water directly at the base of the plant. Warm water is better for the plants (they can absorb more nutrients from warm water and in the spring and fall it helps to warm the soil.) Make sure to water close to the ground so you do not form puddles in the soil. Only water the base of plants- wet leaves are more susceptible to fungal diseases. The best time to water is early in the morning.

Water frequently (every one or two days,) based on the weather how your plants look, and what the soil feels like. Plants need more water if it is hot and sunny than if it is cool or cloudy. If plants turn yellow, they are getting too much water. If they are wilting, they are not getting enough. If the top one or two inches of the soil feel dry, it is time to water. Water the soil deeply to encourage deep root growth.

Mulching

Mulching helps to conserve moisture and keep weeds under control. Spread a thick layer (several inches thick) of straw, shredded leaves, compost, dried leaves, or anything else that can be used as mulch, around your bed once your plants are established.

Weeding

Weed when the weeds are young and when the soil is wet. Always take care of weeds before they bloom to prevent having more of them the following year.


Extreme Weather Conditions

Hot, Dry Weather: Frequent and heavy watering.

Heavy Rains: If soil has been washed away, recover any exposed roots with soil; eliminate snail and slug hiding places (such as under rocks,); watch for fungal and bacterial disease.

Late (or early) Frost: Cover plants with a protective covering such as a storm window cover or even newspaper.

Further Resources

Mel Bartholomew’s Square Foot Gardening is a great resource for learning more about square foot gardening.

Tuesday, July 14, 2009

Post Cheap Energy: Food From the Backyard


As an ad-hoc/occasional member of the Green City Growers team, I'm clearly interested in the concept of local food production. I've also taken an interest in the concept of peak oil, not so much for the "end of the world" elements that some might believe in but because of the re-localization of our economies that it will hasten. Seems that the former Chief Strategist of CIBC World Markets Jeff Rubin agrees. In his new book "Why Your World is About to Get a Whole Lot Smaller" Mr. Rubin spends some time on the future of food in a world made smaller by expensive shipping fuel. On page 221,

Where is the food of the future going to come from? Your own backyard. That shift in food supply is already starting to take place. An increasingly carbon-conscious and energy-conscious food consumer in North America is already clamoring for more homegrown food. Not only does replacing foreign food with local food save energy, but in the process it reduces carbon emissions - a double win in an economy that not only had to contend with triple-digit oil prices but that will soon put a price on burning oil as well.

Seems like Green City Growers is on the forefront (along with many other organizations like Growing Power, Farm Fresh Rhode Island, BALLE, Slowfood, etc.) of a post cheap energy food infrastructure.

Sunday, May 31, 2009

View From the Crowd (Urban Intensive Clinic 5/23)


I guess I'm a "part-time" member of the Green City Growers (GCG) team, working on a business plan with a team of fellow BGI students based upon GCG's business. Of course, I know little to nothing about farming or gardening besides gleaning information about our incredibly energy intensive and "unhealthy" industrial food system from reports like this one from the Post Carbon Institute and (of course) Michael Pollan's and Mark Bittman's books on the massive changes required in our industrialized food system.

Anyway, I decided to stop by at the Heartbeat Collective in Jamaica Plain for a little while at the Urban Intensive Workshop and see what it's all about. Most of my work with GCG has been through e-mails and phone calls with Jessie and Gabe, and for all my hemming and hawing about local food, I'd yet to plant a single seedling in anything. In fact, the Cyclamen I bought for work lasted a few months before I managed to kill it (I think with too much water, at least that's what Joe the Gardener thought).

It was great! There were about ten "students" there listening to Gabe passionately talk about the creation of urban food systems. Jessie mixed up a great salad along with a vegan pasta salad for lunch. Then we dove in and built a 4'x4' raised bed complete with soil mixing (1/3 Intervale diverse compost. 1/3 sphagnum peat, 1/3 coarse horticultural vermiculite - the "lite" is for more than one reason!). I loved the fact that Gabe talked about the fact that the materials going into the construction of the bed were NOT local nor sustainable; the wood came from Home Depot (GCG is working on gaining access to New England Fir), the Intervale compost is from The Intervale Center in Burlington, VT, the peat's from somewhere in the UK (GCG would prefer to use a material derived from coconut shells, but its availability is spotty and it comes from the East Indies) and the vermiculite...who knows.

GCG is acting, not waiting for the perfect solution; they'll help develop it.

The hands on construction project of the bed was great, and we all pitched in to the completion. Their commitment to making a micro-farm that has the best possible odds of success for the urban farmer (or one of their customers) was clear to me. They used the best possible soil mixture for this climate, planted their own starts, and installed a timed irrigation system to ensure the proper plant hydration.

Now, to develop a solar powered rain catchment with a timer system to provide the watering system (the WPI geek in me is re-emerging!)